In this article, you learn how super easy it is to sew inseam pockets! It starts with four pocket pattern pieces…
So let’s start with bonus tips, and then sew an inseam pocket step-by-step…
Inseam Pocket | Bonus Tips
- There are different types of inseam pockets, but we’ll be covering the most common and basic type (and my fave) in this article. I like to think of it as a secret or hidden pocket.
- The inseam pocket style demonstrated in this article is best paired with loose fitting garments.
- You can cut the pocket pattern pieces from the fashion fabric you are using in your project. Or, you can use polyester lining fabric for super strong pockets.
And for extra fun and flair, why not cut out your pocket pattern pieces in a contrasting fabric?!
- When creating an inseam pocket for a knit garment, you can use a lightweight woven fabric to avoid bulk.
- And if your fabric is sheer, skip inseam pockets. They will show from the right side (RS). Not a pretty look.
Okay, let the pocket fun begin…
How to Sew an Inseam Pocket
Step 1. Cut out four (4) pocket pattern pieces.
For a garment you’ll need to cut out four (4) pattern pocket pieces: two for the BACK of the skirt and two for the FRONT of the skirt. And they will need to be mirror images of each other.
In the image below, the gray pocket indicates that the tissue pattern for the pocket should be placed with the writing on the tissue pattern facing UP and cut out. And the light-coloured pocket should be placed with the writing facing DOWN and cut out.
This is what you end up with — mirror images…
Step 2. Transfer the notches.
Make sure to transfer the notches from the tissue pocket pattern onto the cut out fabric pocket pieces.
I like to snip mark the notches.
The notch at the top is where you will match the pocket to side seam of the garment.
Sew Easy Tip: On some pocket pattern pieces there will also be two circles markings that indicate where you begin and end the stitching line when attaching the pocket to the garment. You could pin mark those.
Step 3. Mark the SAs on the pocket and the garment.
Step 4. Finish the seam allowances (SAs).
With your SAs finished and the start and stop points clearly marked, you’re now ready to attach your pockets to the skirt FRONT and the skirt BACK…
Step 5. Attach the pockets to the skirt FRONT and the skirt BACK.
Inseam pockets are attached before the SS of the garment are sewn.
Now, if you are using a commercial pattern, there will be a notch in the SS of the garment that you need to line up with the notch in the pocket’s SS.
You can use a 3/8 or 5/8 inch SA to attach the individual pocket pieces to the SS of the garment. You get to choose which you prefer based on your personal preference.
Choosing a 3/8 inch SA to attach the pocket pieces to the SS of the garment will allow the pocket to sit slightly inside the garment.
Okay, go ahead and attach your pocket to the skirt FRONT and the skirt BACK, starting at the top SA intersection and sewing to the bottom intersection.
For precision, I like to take a couple manual stitches at the start and then backstitch before stitching forward. Then, when I am about two stitches away from the bottom intersection, I take two manual stitches and then backstitch.
Step 6. Press the pocket seam.
Now, that the pocket pieces is attached to the garment at the SS, press the pockets’ seams away from the body of the garment like this…
The next step is optional, but can be quite a pretty detail…
You can understitch the pocket to the skirt before preceding to the next step. Or, you can skip it.
Alright, it is now time to slide into home base…
Step 7. Finish sewing the inseam pocket.
Now that the pockets are attached at the SS of the garment, you’re ready to align the raw edges of the SAs of the skirt FRONT and the skirt BACK with each other like this and pin…
And starting at the 5/8 inch seam line at the SS above the pocket, stitch down to the point where you reach the 5/8 inch seam line on the pocket, lift the presser foot, and pivot.
In the top image below, I’ve stitched down the SS of the garment to the pocket’s 5/8 inch seam line. I’m now ready to pivot, which I have in the bottom image…
Okay, now that you’ve pivoted, lower the presser foot, and slowly continue stitching around the pocket curve, using a 5/8 inch SA until you reach the SS of the garment at the bottom of the pocket.
Then, lift the presser foot and pivot again — and finish the SS down to the hem.
In the image below on the left, I’ve sewn around the pocket curve, using a 5/8 inch SA and I’ve reached the SS of the garment at the bottom of the pocket. I’m now ready to pivot.
And in the image below on the right, I’ve pivoted at garment’s SS and I’m positioned to complete the SS of the garment at the bottom of the pocket, using a 5/8 inch SA.
Once, you’ve sewn from the bottom of the pocket to the garment’s hem, the inseam pocket is in!
Step 8. Press & clip.
Now, on the skirt BACK, clip the corners of the SA on the garment (but not the pocket!) on the diagonal at the the top and bottom of the pocket. Then, press the seam flat and then press the SAs open like this…
In the image below, I zoomed in for a close-up of a clipped SA on the skirt BACK…
Finally, give your pocket a quick press from the RS.
You want to press the body of the pocket towards skirt FRONT of the garment.
And voilà! See the finished inseam pocket at the top of the article.
That’s how you sew an inseam pocket!
Here’s the million dollar question:
When it is possible to add an inseam pocket, is a dress complete without one?!
That was a rhetorical question! Because for me, the answer is: NO!
This article has revealed how easy it is to sew an inseam pocket to a garment. Now, let’s do away with pocket-less dresses as much as possible — it’s our duty!
Life is the ultimate red carpet event! Dress for it!
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