In this article, you will learn what understitching is and why it is important; two simple rules of understitching; and how to understitch a garment like a boss!
And while topstitching and edgestitching can have a dual personality — functional and/or decorative, understitching is ONE thing:
And it helps facings “know” their place, which is INSIDE a garment.
So if you’re ready, let’s begin with the…
NOTE: If you’re ready to begin this journey and would like to buy my recommended tools and supplies, please click HERE
Rules of Understitching
Rule #1: If you’re finishing an edge with a shaped or bias facings or applying a collar, then you cannot, must not skip understitching!
Rule #2: Prior to attaching a shaped facing, it is interfaced for added stability!
How to Understitch
It’s really not difficult, but you do have to take your time, so you can be precise!
And here’s how you do it…
Step 1: Staystitch the neckline and armholes of the garment and the shaped facing. In the image below, I marked the curve for staystitching…
Step 2: Then, align the right side (RS) of the facing to the RS of the garment’s edge and stitch them together.
Step 3: Now, grade and clip SAs as needed before understitching.
Did you notice that it is the SA of the facing that is graded in half?
Step 4: Press the SA up towards the facing from the RS of the garment.
Step 5: Then, from the RS, edgestitch the SAs to the facing. You want to position your needle very close to the seam, no more than ⅛ inch away. I like to find a spot on my presser foot to use as a guide to help me maintain the proper distance away from the seam line!
Take your time understitching, please!
Once you’ve completed understitching, this is how it looks closeup…
Step 6: Press the facing to the inside of your garment, rolling the RS of the garment ever so slightly towards the inside of the garment. This will be easier because of understitching!
And you’re done! Behold the finished result from the wrong side (WS or the shaped facing side…
and now from right side (RS)…
If you’ve done this right, your facing will hopefully have the good manners to know its place, which is INSIDE the garment!
So remember this:
When applying shaped facings, you must, you must understitch. Because it is the only way to show them who’s the boss!
Plus, it is the only way to end up with a professional end result. Click HERE to see understitching in action!
Life is the ultimate red carpet event. Dress for it!
RELATED: Click HERE if you’re ready to unleash your dressmaking superpowers and learn how to sew a simple dress! Warning: This is a MEGA 5-part series!